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 answer the dual headlight draining problem? 
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Post answer the dual headlight draining problem?
So since its winter I did the dual headlight mod to my Bws 50 but can't test it. I want to know: Do they drain the battery or not? I've seen people say no, yes, its on a separate system from the battery charging, its takes away from the battery charging... a lot of different answers so, who can put this question to bed once and for all and if it does drain the battery, how can we fix that problem

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2006 Yamaha BWS Blue/Black
-Dual Headlight mod -Triple brake light mod with LEDS -Stebel TM 80 Magnum Low Tone horn
-black powdered coated rack and CVT cover -De-stickered -Frame/under mounted foot pegs with quick removable pegs -Angry Eyes
-Dr. Pulley 7.5G sliders -No engine mods...... yet
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Thu Jan 02, 2014 11:04 am
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Post Re: answer the dual headlight draining problem?
You know that you've posted the same topic 6 times ... so far !! ??

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Thu Jan 02, 2014 11:11 am
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Post Re: answer the dual headlight draining problem?
I saw that :wth: .... I have no idea why it did that :doh: can one of the mods fix that?

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2006 Yamaha BWS Blue/Black
-Dual Headlight mod -Triple brake light mod with LEDS -Stebel TM 80 Magnum Low Tone horn
-black powdered coated rack and CVT cover -De-stickered -Frame/under mounted foot pegs with quick removable pegs -Angry Eyes
-Dr. Pulley 7.5G sliders -No engine mods...... yet
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Thu Jan 02, 2014 12:56 pm
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Post Re: answer the dual headlight draining problem?
The headlights run directly off the magneto and not off the battery. However since dual lights draw more from the magneto there is less to recharge the battery. I have the dual headlight mod and have never had an issue but I run my scoot almost every single day for 5+ miles each run. If you are worried about it get a battery tender and the problem is solved.

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Thu Jan 02, 2014 2:31 pm
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Post Re: answer the dual headlight draining problem?
I am not worried as I ride 3-5 days a week during the summer 50 Km a day total minimum (30ish miles)

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2006 Yamaha BWS Blue/Black
-Dual Headlight mod -Triple brake light mod with LEDS -Stebel TM 80 Magnum Low Tone horn
-black powdered coated rack and CVT cover -De-stickered -Frame/under mounted foot pegs with quick removable pegs -Angry Eyes
-Dr. Pulley 7.5G sliders -No engine mods...... yet
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Thu Jan 02, 2014 3:31 pm
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Post Re: answer the dual headlight draining problem?
I also plug it into my battery tender junior every day and charge/check the battery fully once a month

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2006 Yamaha BWS Blue/Black
-Dual Headlight mod -Triple brake light mod with LEDS -Stebel TM 80 Magnum Low Tone horn
-black powdered coated rack and CVT cover -De-stickered -Frame/under mounted foot pegs with quick removable pegs -Angry Eyes
-Dr. Pulley 7.5G sliders -No engine mods...... yet
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Thu Jan 02, 2014 3:32 pm
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Post Re: answer the dual headlight draining problem?
It is the electric starting that will drain the battery. Under normal 15-20 minutes drive time it restores it to the battery. But like it has bin said, it is the left over voltage from the lighting circuit that gets rectified to DC, that Re-charges the battery. so limit idling & repeated electric starts.

I ran Dual headlights for 3 years, no problem. 2 of those were with electric start. If you were doing deliveries and stopping and starting 5-6 times in an half hour, that would be another cart of apples.

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MHR Hyper Race, 70cc #318440 / Yasuni C-16 pipe, Stage 6 HPC 12mm Crank, Polini C-3 Race Brg. MVT premium, IGGY, TNT- Adj- Inj Pump / Y-Plate, Motul 710, Malossi Over-Range Var-6.0 rollers,Torque Boost Rear Pulley & Stage 6 k-belt, Orange, Contra / 1 spacer, DR HIT Clutch,red malossi race / no pillows+ STG 6 433 Bell, 15-50 Up Gear, Moto Tassinari VF3 Reed's & 4mm spacer, Clone-Blk 21mm, MJ #-94,PJ#42, W-7 2nd , 45*Slide, OEM Airbox , Snorkle out, 5 vents, Side Stand, Daytona Style Alloy Wheels,WD Torsion Arm, Stage 6 R/T Multimeter, Strt-8-HD Fan Trimmed + Air Scoop 50cc Fan Housing, Frt - Pirelli - SL 26 - 120/90/10, Rear- Shinko - 160/70/12, Frando Racing / 5DV-001 Ceramic Rear Shoes - Sigma BC-8 Speedometer-


Thu Jan 02, 2014 3:51 pm
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Post Re: answer the dual headlight draining problem?
Over 15000 miles with dual headlights with no battery issues

It wasn't until I added efi that I had issues with the charging system

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Thu Jan 02, 2014 6:18 pm
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Post Re: answer the dual headlight draining problem?
is there a way to test it? Yes there is you could rig up some test equipment.

Can't imagine how you could justify it though. Most people run dual headlights on the 50 and no one has ever reported a battery draining problem citing the dual headlights as being the culprit.

I seem to remember reading somewhere that the circuit that runs the battery and the circuit that runs the headlights are separate. I.e. the magneto has two outputs and one does not affect the other. I don't know if this os correct though and I have no source.

From what I do know, the only thing the dual headlight mod does is put a heavier load on the engine (hardly enough to make a difference, but the laws of physics say it must even if its insignificant). Also if they are on the same magneto output there would be less current available to charge the battery AND/OR there would be more stress on the magneto/engine, depending on how its wired.

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Thu Jan 02, 2014 9:11 pm
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Post Re: answer the dual headlight draining problem?
You can test it with a volt meter at the fully charged battery. Anything over 12.6 is Charging the battery. There is only one output source from the Stator, It is AC. The Choke element, Headlights & Dashlights are powered from it. It then gets Rectified to DC and powers the Battery. Tail lights,Starter relay circuit & key operated devices. Any thing over the Voltage regulators, set voltage. Is shunted to ground, so both the AC & DC stay the same regulated voltage.

The Battery acts as a storage device to operate the starter. Once started it, it recharges to the regulated voltage & acts like Capacitor.
That is why if you run with out a battery, or a bad one. You frequently fry, Regulators-Rectifiers and Stators.

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MHR Hyper Race, 70cc #318440 / Yasuni C-16 pipe, Stage 6 HPC 12mm Crank, Polini C-3 Race Brg. MVT premium, IGGY, TNT- Adj- Inj Pump / Y-Plate, Motul 710, Malossi Over-Range Var-6.0 rollers,Torque Boost Rear Pulley & Stage 6 k-belt, Orange, Contra / 1 spacer, DR HIT Clutch,red malossi race / no pillows+ STG 6 433 Bell, 15-50 Up Gear, Moto Tassinari VF3 Reed's & 4mm spacer, Clone-Blk 21mm, MJ #-94,PJ#42, W-7 2nd , 45*Slide, OEM Airbox , Snorkle out, 5 vents, Side Stand, Daytona Style Alloy Wheels,WD Torsion Arm, Stage 6 R/T Multimeter, Strt-8-HD Fan Trimmed + Air Scoop 50cc Fan Housing, Frt - Pirelli - SL 26 - 120/90/10, Rear- Shinko - 160/70/12, Frando Racing / 5DV-001 Ceramic Rear Shoes - Sigma BC-8 Speedometer-


Fri Jan 03, 2014 9:09 am
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Post Re: answer the dual headlight draining problem?
Corrosion, any ideas why my charging voltage would be low? It's supposed to be over 13V, but mine's in the 12.x range and I have to charge the battery manually every three weeks or so.

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'05 Zuma 50, Athena sport 70cc (12mm piston) with Polini head (.9 squish), B9ES spark plug; timing advanced about 2˚; Yasuni C16 exhaust, Buzzetti kick stand to make room for it (and Stage6 paddock stand after dropping the freaking bike because of the kick stand); stock airbox no snorkel, 5 x 1/2" holes; Stage6 21mm racing PHBG, 45/95/W7 1 lean/40 slide; Polini/Power One 12mm HPC crank; Athena 15/50 gears (also have 14/42s pressed into a gearbox cover, just switched back and like the 15/50s so far); 107mm Malossi Delta clutch, "racing" red springs/lighter "racing" counterweights ± 6800 RPM engagement, Stage6 Kupplungsglocke (bell - the light one); Malossi 6112811 Overrange kit, red contra and 28.2G rollers; VForce 3 reeds; Michelin Bopper tires; back to the stock shock; dual headlight wiring; C3 mirrors; Trailtech TTO tachometer and temp gauge.


Fri Jan 03, 2014 1:06 pm
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Post Re: answer the dual headlight draining problem?
higher rpms is when it charges
not at idle

should say in the book the rpms to check it at

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2010 Zuma 155cc
BWS X Digital Gauges<>Clear Smoke BWS 125 Turn Signal Covers<>Billet Bar Ends<>Front Brake Rotor 260mm<>Razor Cam Covers<>NCY Breather Assembly<>Polini EVO Clutch Bell<>Anodized Orange Dipstick<>RRGS Front and Rear Shocks<>Dual 5000K HID's 35w High/Low Beam<>Black Adjustable Brake levers<>Halo Led's<>TST 2 Stage Variator 9gL 10gS <>NCY Oil Cooler<>Yamaha Skid Plate<>NCY Contra Spring Bearing<>1000 Rpm RRGS Contra Spring<>Yoshimura Exhaust<>NCY Direct Ignition Coil<>Lightweight Cooling Fan<>Koso Cable Clamps<>High Lift Cam+Lightened Cam Sprocket<>Underseat Storage Bag<>Stage 6 (Koso) Clutch<>Accel Handlebars<>Koso Brake Light<>Lightweight Swingarm<>RRGS 4 Pot Caliper (PH80)<>Stainless Braided Brake Line<>Lightened F|ywheel<>OEM Headlight Screens<>Zubiku Wing<>Air Horn<>9 inch stretch<>Koso High Flow Filter/Cover<>RPM 10 Spoke Wheels<>Digital Camo Vinyl Wrap<>SEP Cvt Covers





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Fri Jan 03, 2014 3:49 pm
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Post Re: answer the dual headlight draining problem?
Good call Mike:
Charging volts should be checked @ +2.5 - 3k, or higher RPM. With a fully charged battery. Why? A fully charged & good battery & engine sufficent RPM, is needed to properly check the system. A low, dead, or defective Battery, or not up to RPM. Will absorb the small voltage & current input. making it appear your not charging, when you actually are.

So, Good Battery & Sufficient RPM are necessary to accurately test.

Thanks Mike, I take these things for granted. When I should not.

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MHR Hyper Race, 70cc #318440 / Yasuni C-16 pipe, Stage 6 HPC 12mm Crank, Polini C-3 Race Brg. MVT premium, IGGY, TNT- Adj- Inj Pump / Y-Plate, Motul 710, Malossi Over-Range Var-6.0 rollers,Torque Boost Rear Pulley & Stage 6 k-belt, Orange, Contra / 1 spacer, DR HIT Clutch,red malossi race / no pillows+ STG 6 433 Bell, 15-50 Up Gear, Moto Tassinari VF3 Reed's & 4mm spacer, Clone-Blk 21mm, MJ #-94,PJ#42, W-7 2nd , 45*Slide, OEM Airbox , Snorkle out, 5 vents, Side Stand, Daytona Style Alloy Wheels,WD Torsion Arm, Stage 6 R/T Multimeter, Strt-8-HD Fan Trimmed + Air Scoop 50cc Fan Housing, Frt - Pirelli - SL 26 - 120/90/10, Rear- Shinko - 160/70/12, Frando Racing / 5DV-001 Ceramic Rear Shoes - Sigma BC-8 Speedometer-


Fri Jan 03, 2014 4:50 pm
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Post Re: answer the dual headlight draining problem?
at idle your probably slowly draining the battery because of the running light
and little more if holding the brake light and signals flashing

why short trips dont charge the battery too well, and alot of electric starting

I think around 30 mph you are getting a good charge
so if you putt around slow all the time your not

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2010 Zuma 155cc
BWS X Digital Gauges<>Clear Smoke BWS 125 Turn Signal Covers<>Billet Bar Ends<>Front Brake Rotor 260mm<>Razor Cam Covers<>NCY Breather Assembly<>Polini EVO Clutch Bell<>Anodized Orange Dipstick<>RRGS Front and Rear Shocks<>Dual 5000K HID's 35w High/Low Beam<>Black Adjustable Brake levers<>Halo Led's<>TST 2 Stage Variator 9gL 10gS <>NCY Oil Cooler<>Yamaha Skid Plate<>NCY Contra Spring Bearing<>1000 Rpm RRGS Contra Spring<>Yoshimura Exhaust<>NCY Direct Ignition Coil<>Lightweight Cooling Fan<>Koso Cable Clamps<>High Lift Cam+Lightened Cam Sprocket<>Underseat Storage Bag<>Stage 6 (Koso) Clutch<>Accel Handlebars<>Koso Brake Light<>Lightweight Swingarm<>RRGS 4 Pot Caliper (PH80)<>Stainless Braided Brake Line<>Lightened F|ywheel<>OEM Headlight Screens<>Zubiku Wing<>Air Horn<>9 inch stretch<>Koso High Flow Filter/Cover<>RPM 10 Spoke Wheels<>Digital Camo Vinyl Wrap<>SEP Cvt Covers





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Fri Jan 03, 2014 5:28 pm
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Post Re: answer the dual headlight draining problem?
corrosion wrote:
You can test it with a volt meter at the fully charged battery. Anything over 12.6 is Charging the battery. There is only one output source from the Stator, It is AC. The Choke element, Headlights & Dashlights are powered from it. It then gets Rectified to DC and powers the Battery. Tail lights,Starter relay circuit & key operated devices. Any thing over the Voltage regulators, set voltage. Is shunted to ground, so both the AC & DC stay the same regulated voltage.

The Battery acts as a storage device to operate the starter. Once started it, it recharges to the regulated voltage & acts like Capacitor.
That is why if you run with out a battery, or a bad one. You frequently fry, Regulators-Rectifiers and Stators.

Bumping an older thread. I almost don't want to, but testing my scooter today made me see some stuff about this.


Looking at the schematics and scooter specs in the service manuals, it seems like our stators have two power-related coils: a coil for the DC/battery, and a lighting coil.

The battery coil is simple, it goes straight to the rectifier and gets changed to DC.

The lighting coil feeds the headlights, choke and illumination, then the rest gets converted to DC.


I'm tweaking my scooter right now and doing test runs without a battery. (I'm well aware that it isn't good for the R/R and stator but whatever.) In the last few days I was running it with a single headlight, because that's how it was always set up. I however recently found a modded connector in my pile 'o parts to use both headlights, so I decided to give it a try.

To my surprise, the taillight was barely showing, the turn signals were struggling way more than usual, AND the headlights were dimming as soon as I hit the brakes or using the turn signals. With a single headlight the lights weren't dimming so much from the extra charge.

I think this shows that the headlights aren't "free" power that goes to waste. The charging system relies on that to even out the power and properly feed the battery. I'm not sure however where the limits of the R/R are however, in term of how much of both coils can be converted to DC through it. I do want to make some tests by plugging an ammeter between the battery and the harness' positive to see how much current reaches the battery while running normally, and if adding/removing headlights changes this number.

I agree with the above however, frequent e-start with not much throttling in-between, especially combined with dual headlights or triple taillights, and anything else that draws from the battery, will slowly drain the battery down. Normal riding however should be fine. Or use the kickstart :D

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'94 Yamaha Jog - MHR BigBore 77cc, Yasuni C30, Stage6 HPC 12mm, MHR Digital Direct + EPROM 3 CDI, Dell'Orto VHST 28mm BS, Stage6 Big Valve intake, Stage6 NBR reeds, Malossi MHR Overrange 2005, Stage6 Torque Control + Stage6 CNC 450g bell, 14/46 primary gears


Sat Apr 26, 2014 8:39 am
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