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 YAMAHA ZUMA BUGEYE - top performance 70cc kit questions. 
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Newb
Newb

Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2016 7:58 am
Posts: 26
Location: Buena Park, CA
Post Re: 70cc kit Top Performance on 2008
Any luck with your build? If you got the tools, drill it out and use a heli coil or time sert to repair the threads. Otherwise, take it to a shop that knows what to do. I think if you smear a light coat of sealant on the ribbed gasket you should be fine. I joined this forum a couple of years ago with the intent to build up my 05 zuma 50 but just ended up with a room full of new parts collecting dust :doh: . I have a black trophy kit , mhr rep kit and just recently got a used polini kit (labeled as a 50cc, it might be a 70cc fingers crossed). And I got a spare motor too, smh. Lastly, as this advise was given to me here, order spare gasket sets and a piston kit (oversize piston if possible, hard to find though). So you are covered for the next rebuild if needed. Good luck with your project!

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05 Zuma, 08 rear pulley/clutch, malossi Multivar, 6.5gr dp sliders, Malossi front half pulley, malossi torsion controller, mini tach


Sun May 06, 2018 9:47 am
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Scooterologist

Joined: Sun May 07, 2017 9:55 am
Posts: 44
Post Re: YAMAHA ZUMA BUGEYE - top performance 70cc kit questions.
So after a week or so of trying to remove the cracked bolt it is OUT!!! :hurr: :pervert: :mario: :mario:

I started with vice grips different ends and sizes ended up making it worse. DO NOT USE VICE GRIPS to unscrew broken bolts it tears the threads which is fine but it can eat the metal and make it harder to do an extraction.

I tried filing the bolt on its sides and using vice grips again no luck. I put a bolt on the end of the nub and tried to JB weld the nut on which was a waste. I am not the best at this stuff so for those of you that knew that would never work that is great it was a learning experience for me.

I then tried more filing to get a tiny wrench on there and put a small flat head in with the wrench to try and turn it. I broke my little wrench lol.

Then I used my dremel tool with a diamond cutter and tried to make a slot to get a flat head in but that did not work either.

I went to home depot and bought some extractors, a self centering punch, and a small cobalt drill bit in hopes of extracting it. I have read this doesn't always work so I called a local shop that is working on my truck and asked if they would weld a nut on the top they said sure bring it in.

I brought it in the guy said no there is not enough room to weld the oil reservoir or bleeder assembly area was too close he was worried it would melt that. He then tried using an extractor bit with no success. He then drilled it out and did not have the right tap to get all the way to the bottom so he said go buy this part. I saw the depths were different when comparing to the stud next to it so he used a reverse drill bit to try and trim down the remaining part of the bolt and the last little bit of the bolt screwed out. Im talking 2 threads worth of bolt. So I have a flat bottom and it is re threaded and ready for my bolt which will hopefully be here today.

I dissembled the engine from the frame so I have to put it back together and clean everything up then reinstall the cylinder, carb, and replace the reeds. I will try and do it all tonight I will let you guys know if it starts or not.

Sorry I wrote so much but I wanted to emphasize how much time I wasted on this and it might have ruined my whole block because the drilling of that aluminium can deform it so easily. I will never try and use the wrong tool again lol. I went and bought a 1/4 inch torque wrench.

TOTAL TIME SPENT TRYING TO EXTRACT THE BOLT 9hrs easily. Each night working a couple hours this last week trying different things and techniques but in the end at least it came out and the stud will still fit nicely.


Thu May 10, 2018 12:10 pm
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Scooterologist

Joined: Sun May 07, 2017 9:55 am
Posts: 44
Post Re: YAMAHA ZUMA BUGEYE - top performance 70cc kit questions.
The hole is not gripping the stud :doh: . My threads are ruined. I am going to drill out the hole and tap the next size up and use a heli-coil. If anyone has some tips about drilling into aluminium or tips on using a helicoils let me know. Thanks.

If I mess this up my next option would be to fill the hole up with JB weld tap new threads.

For any new tuners out there not to intimidate you but just keep in mind things can happen and it could have a huge impact on your scoot.

This will be my first time tapping a hole and drilling into an aluminum block again any pointers would be appreciated.
Ill keep you guys updated. :haw:


Mon May 14, 2018 6:05 pm
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Newb
Newb

Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2018 6:21 am
Posts: 15
Post Re: YAMAHA ZUMA BUGEYE - top performance 70cc kit questions.
Make sure you put a rag where you don’t want possible filings to go. I usually put grease on the drill bit to help hold the finlings to it. Low drill rpm, light consistent pressure. Watch your angle, stay straight and you should be good.


Tue May 15, 2018 3:14 am
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Scooterologist

Joined: Sun May 07, 2017 9:55 am
Posts: 44
Post Re: YAMAHA ZUMA BUGEYE - top performance 70cc kit questions.
Thanks man! I think the hardest part is going to be staying straight and getting the correct angle that the factory had. Do you think with the hole already bored out it should follow the same path easily? I have been watching videos all day about drilling into aluminum. I picked up the helicoil kit today.

The tap it came with had a pointed end is this going to a problem I read somewhere you want a flat end for holes that have a bottom.

Thanks again man for the tips! :cheers:


Tue May 15, 2018 12:42 pm
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Newb
Newb

Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2018 6:21 am
Posts: 15
Post Re: YAMAHA ZUMA BUGEYE - top performance 70cc kit questions.
As long as close to the angle, the bit should follow the hole. It’s not much bigger. Really only to take out the threads. As for the bit, stop when you get resistance. The coils usually aren’t as deep as the bit anyways. When you think your close to bottoming out the bit, stop, clean it out, and use a light to see in it. Where you drilled should be shinier or cleaner looking. If the bit touches the end, it’ll leave a mark on the bottom. You can measure how much of the stud is supposed to go in and mark the drill with a piece of tape at the same length as well.


Tue May 15, 2018 5:25 pm
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