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 What to inspect in a used high mile zuma 
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Newb
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Joined: Thu Jul 13, 2017 11:55 pm
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Post What to inspect in a used high mile zuma
So like the title says. I found a 125 but it has about 11000 miles on it. What should I look at so I know it's a sound ride


Fri Jul 14, 2017 9:45 am
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Scoot Master

Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2014 1:36 pm
Posts: 242
Post Re: What to inspect in a used high mile zuma
If you decide to stick with stock and are handy at working on bikes. worst case is you have to replace the stock piston that's about 30$ 2.) belt if you get a good one will be 50 $ to 80$ if it runs and you can drive it up to about 50 mph or higher i would say that its going to be fine. does it stop? do the breaks work? if you can stop and the bike goes. I would say. buy it and drive it until it blows up. If you want to do mods to it earlier then that, we are here for you to help you rev it up higher then stock.


there ya go.

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Fri Jul 14, 2017 11:55 am
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Scoot Master

Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2014 1:36 pm
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Post Re: What to inspect in a used high mile zuma
What are you paying for the bike? is the body in good shape?

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Fri Jul 14, 2017 11:57 am
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Newb
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Joined: Thu Jul 13, 2017 11:55 pm
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Post Re: What to inspect in a used high mile zuma
From the pics the body is in good shape. It just has 11000 miles. Trying to get it for 1000havenot seen it n person yet. Just want som info before I check it out


Fri Jul 14, 2017 1:41 pm
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Newb
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Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2017 9:38 am
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Post Re: What to inspect in a used high mile zuma
stock engine runs forever. just keep up on the oil changes and maintenance.

nearing 28,000 on modified engine. had about 15,000 before doing bbk.


Sun Jul 16, 2017 5:24 am
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Scooterologist
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Joined: Fri Jun 16, 2017 4:25 am
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Location: Delaware Ohio
Post Re: What to inspect in a used high mile zuma
I remember when we thought 10,000 miles was high mileage on motorcycles. Now high mileage is over 50,000. I'd take a perfect condition 30,000 mile CBR600RR over an 8000 mile one that shows signs of being ridden hard. Motorcycle engines - yes scooters have the same quality engines - can easily go 50,000 miles regardless of displacement.

With the one you are looking at it is all about condition. Crash damage or scratched up plastic. Check air filter for being decent, not caked with dirt, and oil is full and not looking totally junk. Look under the chassis for scrapes and all. Again - condition, condition, condition.

11,000 miles, just broken in - literally.

Back in the 80s we had a Honda Spree 50 show up with over 10,000 miles on it. A couple of girls rode it like crazy around their long wide home driveway, plus possibly their dad may have taken it to the flat track races for a pit bike for the team he sponsored. We also sold a Honda Helix, that came in for regular maintenance, got traded in around 2005 on a lower mileage Helix we got in. The service manager bought the high mileage Helix - 64,000 miles no engine work. It did get a couple belts and new pulleys when some idiot "worked" on it and welded up the "broken" back pulley... Last time the owner had anyone but the shop do work on his Helix.


Mon Jul 17, 2017 6:33 am
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Post Re: What to inspect in a used high mile zuma
If it starts and runs/rides without weird noises or needing assistance, then it should be a decent buy. Most you will need to service is a CVT Belt, rollers (if they've got flat spots), oil change service, and valve adjustment, check the air filter for replacement.

These engines in stock form are very reliable. The only internal component that I would consider the weakest link is the timing/cam gear chain. The chain will stretch over its lifespan and eventually it will snap. This happened to my chain at about 36,000 miles, but I have a BBK with a +3.5mm stroker crankshaft which puts more tension and stress on the cam chain. I'm sure the stock motor or even a mild bbk would allow the timing chain to last much longer

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Mon Jul 17, 2017 6:23 pm
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Scooterologist
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Post Re: What to inspect in a used high mile zuma
JohnnyFYX wrote:
If it starts and runs/rides without weird noises or needing assistance, then it should be a decent buy. Most you will need to service is a CVT Belt, rollers (if they've got flat spots), oil change service, and valve adjustment, check the air filter for replacement.

These engines in stock form are very reliable. The only internal component that I would consider the weakest link is the timing/cam gear chain. The chain will stretch over its lifespan and eventually it will snap. This happened to my chain at about 36,000 miles, but I have a BBK with a +3.5mm stroker crankshaft which puts more tension and stress on the cam chain. I'm sure the stock motor or even a mild bbk would allow the timing chain to last much longer



This is new territory for me, but I make tensioners for the motorcycles. More often than not it isn't the chain going bad, the tensioners get damaged due to the nature of how they work, getting pushed in and snapping back out over and over. The ratchet set up many use just doesn't work right due to having to deal with the dynamic wear of the chain versus the incremental ratcheting of the tensioner. If the ratchet doesn't quite get seated it will snap back chipping both the pawl and the rack tooth. Seen it numerous times including in my own Kawasakis. Mine showed wear that allowed the tensioner to push back about 1/2" - really bad.

When the tensioner starts to fail the cam drive will make a clicking sound on the motorcycles, probably on the scooters too. The worse the tensioner the more the clatter. Some bikes rattle from idle on up, others may rattle at certain RPM ranges like the KLX250 does. If the failed tensioner allows too much slack in the cam chain it will jump time at the crank and either jam and snap or stick valves, jam and snap. I've known of some KLX300s that got that bad. I am waiting to see what the tensioner in my Zuma is like and will probably make a tensioner for it.

My KLX650 had two OEM auto tensioners go bad in 14,000 miles. The manual adjust is still going strong 35,000 miles later with 4 adjustments, the first two fairly quicky because we had to put in new chains (2 in the 650) as the bad tensioners had allowed so much slapping around they were bad. My 550 Zephr has 24,000 miles on the cam chain, 12,000 of it with a manual tensioner. The OEM one was junk, allowed the cam drive to buzz like a hornets nest.

If you hear cam drive noise it is time to dump the auto tensioner and look for a manual one. Odds are since I have a Zuma there will shortly be a manual one for them. No noise no problem, hear noise fix it.


Mon Jul 17, 2017 8:03 pm
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Post Re: What to inspect in a used high mile zuma
I dont know if a manual tensioner is available for the zuma 125 short of modding the stock assembly to make it manual. I inspected the teeth on my stock auto tensioner during each bbk build and have not seen excessive wear or any failure, so I have continued to use the original tensioner even after my chain broke. Unless the part is defective in some way it seems the OEM tensioner is built very reliable compared to other manufacturers auto tensioners. The spring may become weak over time, which may pose a problem, but the locking teeth seem good enough for the job.

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JohnnyFYX Zuma 125 Build Thread «:::Mods Listed Here:::» RC Scooters Extreme 155cc BBK w/18,500+ Miles... Upgraded to RC Scooters/Taida +3.5mm Stroker 168cc BBK!
How-To: Fix All LED TurnSignal Flashing & NonFlashing Issues
How-To: BWS Asian HID Projector Headlight Retrofit
Taida King Cam (New In Box) For Sale: $90 Shipped
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Wed Jul 19, 2017 10:00 am
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Scooterologist
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Joined: Fri Jun 16, 2017 4:25 am
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Location: Delaware Ohio
Post Re: What to inspect in a used high mile zuma
This tensioner came out of a GSF1250 looks good, right?

Image

This is how far the tensioner is sliding back in, then sliding back out.

Image

How much slack in the cam chain do you think that allows?

How about this one from my KLX250, notice the nick on top of the eleventh tooth from the right:

Image

This is the wear, how far it was pushed back and forth.

Image

That is what you have to look for. How far it is pushed back every time under deceleration or when hitting the right harmonics to cause the chain to oscillate back and forth.

Here is a link to my web site with what I observed over the years. http://ns53.webmasters.com/*clems-garag ... ioners.htm

I will qualify it a bit too, I have an engineering background including tooling inspection for quality and equipment failure. I'm not just guessing.

HyVo chains are known for strength and similar chains run tens of thousands of miles in millions of bikes. I don't absolutely see the chain as the root cause.

Don't take this post as any sort of slam, it is for information and explanation.

You may also see the line that says “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it.” No cam drive noise = no tensioner problem, why bother changing it. If it ever goes, fix it then.


Wed Jul 19, 2017 3:11 pm
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