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 strange sound when cold -Now hot 
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Post Re: strange sound when cold -Now hot
pretty sure service manual says 10w30
but look that up, because if they put in 50 then im not sure what you could do
do you have proof in writing 50 was used

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Wed Jun 03, 2015 3:58 pm
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Post Re: strange sound when cold -Now hot
Yes i have a receipt that it proves that castrol power 1 gps 15w50 was used, manual states 10w40.

Just to mention that the sound was there couples thousand kms ago but it became louder lately.

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Wed Jun 03, 2015 4:16 pm
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Post Re: strange sound when cold -Now hot
well maybe you can get a free valve inspection then if you complain the oil they used isnt what is recommended


once my license plate was causing the weird rattling noise shove a rag under it see if it stops making the noise

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Wed Jun 03, 2015 4:23 pm
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Post Re: strange sound when cold -Now hot
Made another run today and what i found is while im at half or so throttle it sounds fine when i throttle it up it increases accordingly. idles sounds fine.

in the beginning of the video im below half and i give it some gas




Also i blocked my left and right ear and the sound is definatly louder from the exhaust side.

Upd1
Took it to the dealer today after a short test ride he found out that the clutch Bell or the clutch pads are worn and start sliping when they get hot
they ill be checked in the upcoming service.

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Thu Jun 04, 2015 3:48 am
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Post Re: strange sound when cold -Now hot
mitsakhs wrote:
Yes i have a receipt that it proves that castrol power 1 gps 15w50 was used, manual states 10w40.

Just to mention that the sound was there couples thousand kms ago but it became louder lately.


I would be pissed if this was my bike and they put the wrong oil in it!

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Thu Jun 18, 2015 4:34 am
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Post Re: strange sound when cold -Now hot
mitsakhs wrote:
Made another run today and what i found is while im at half or so throttle it sounds fine when i throttle it up it increases accordingly. idles sounds fine.

in the beginning of the video im below half and i give it some gas




Also i blocked my left and right ear and the sound is definatly louder from the exhaust side.

Upd1
Took it to the dealer today after a short test ride he found out that the clutch Bell or the clutch pads are worn and start sliping when they get hot
they ill be checked in the upcoming service.




how many miles on that clutch
I had over 5000 on my stock one and it was still in spec for the thickness

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Thu Jun 18, 2015 5:32 am
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Post Re: strange sound when cold -Now hot
Been some time that i had my scoot in the garage and yesterday i did the service . The sound was coming from the slider things 2 out of 3 was loose so that was fixed but strange things is in my destiny .

I cleaned the vario and placed back the dps in the right way(double checked) and also removed the clutch and pass it with some sandpaper i placed everything back in place

and taran now revs like maniac after 80 kph and hits limiter at 100 kph = 62 mph instead of 119 km h = 73 mph same downhill :awesome: :doh:

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Mon Aug 17, 2015 6:08 am
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Post Re: strange sound when cold -Now hot
whats your rpm when you hit the limiter
ive never hit a limiter yet even around 9500rpm

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Mon Aug 17, 2015 6:48 am
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Post Re: strange sound when cold -Now hot
I wish i knew but in eu we have the retro style speedo however definitely it feels like a rev limiter cutting the spark and its a 2013 model
Dont know from where to start


what i did :


changed oil with the same one

changed spak plug with iridium one

changed air filter

cvt maintenance

general check brakes,battery etc

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Mon Aug 17, 2015 11:46 am
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Post Re: strange sound when cold -Now hot
well too light of rollers or sliders will cause the rpm's to be too high
thats where you want to invest in a tach there are cheap battery powered ones that install super easy and fast

to see where your rpm's are when trying different weights
that way your not guessing on what your doing because sometimes a 1 gram difference will show up on a tach not on the speedo

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2010 Zuma 155cc
BWS X Digital Gauges<>Clear Smoke BWS 125 Turn Signal Covers<>Billet Bar Ends<>Front Brake Rotor 260mm<>Razor Cam Covers<>NCY Breather Assembly<>Polini EVO Clutch Bell<>Anodized Orange Dipstick<>RRGS Front and Rear Shocks<>Dual 5000K HID's 35w High/Low Beam<>Black Adjustable Brake levers<>Halo Led's<>TST 2 Stage Variator 9gL 10gS <>NCY Oil Cooler<>Yamaha Skid Plate<>NCY Contra Spring Bearing<>1000 Rpm RRGS Contra Spring<>Yoshimura Exhaust<>NCY Direct Ignition Coil<>Lightweight Cooling Fan<>Koso Cable Clamps<>High Lift Cam+Lightened Cam Sprocket<>Underseat Storage Bag<>Stage 6 (Koso) Clutch<>Accel Handlebars<>Koso Brake Light<>Lightweight Swingarm<>RRGS 4 Pot Caliper (PH80)<>Stainless Braided Brake Line<>Lightened F|ywheel<>OEM Headlight Screens<>Zubiku Wing<>Air Horn<>9 inch stretch<>Koso High Flow Filter/Cover<>RPM 10 Spoke Wheels<>Digital Camo Vinyl Wrap<>SEP Cvt Covers





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Mon Aug 17, 2015 4:20 pm
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Post Re: strange sound when cold -Now hot
ZUMIKE wrote:
well too light of rollers or sliders will cause the rpm's to be too high
thats where you want to invest in a tach there are cheap battery powered ones that install super easy and fast

to see where your rpm's are when trying different weights
that way your not guessing on what your doing because sometimes a 1 gram difference will show up on a tach not on the speedo



You know were to get battery powerd tach Mike?
Thanks Man
AjR


Wed Aug 19, 2015 6:46 pm
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Post Re: strange sound when cold -Now hot
ebay has all sorts

but a decent one I like is by trail tech

http://www.compacc.com/p/trailtech-tto-hour-meter?utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid_search&utm_campaign=paid_search_google_pla&scid=scplp6199718&gclid=Cj0KEQjw0tCuBRDIjJ_Mlb6zzpQBEiQAyjCoBiH-2qtXT_gEpi9_CPMEuQYXRDwvlxAkDob_BVMo-4MaAh0D8P8HAQ


they wont be super fast, but good enough

if you want very fast readings you will need an analog tach
the cheap digital ones seem to have a slight lag

but its quick and easy to use for temporary or permanent installs

just wrap the wire coming off of it around your spark plug wire a few times
and thats it


I usually use the tach to measure top speed rpm's and idle
when riding a cvt bike you really dont need to use it for anything else since you dont have to shift



incase you dont get much results using your speedo a tach can show slight changes with the rpm levels which I found helps me alot

usually you will want to stay around 8400 rpm or higher when driving hard
this is from a dead stop up to around 30 mph or so

it will slowly climb from there once you pick up more speed
they seem to make the most power around 8400 rpm so if you can get to that right away it should perform the best



max speed rpm im around 9500
freeway speed im around 9000

of course yours will vary depending on your setup
im sure im right at hitting a rev limiter, but never have yet which is fine
because if I did hit the limiter then I wouldn't be going any faster anyways

so im not really going to crazy with the rpm levels when making the most power

of course if I accelerate slow and cruise around then the levels will vary

but when testing the roller weights I drive it hard
and write down the speeds and rpm's at the same areas each time I pull over and write the info down
I have a few test spots here I can do near home, up hills, down hills, flat ground so makes it quick to get the results

so then when I get back home I have a large list of the different changes the weights provide and pick the best setup for what im trying to achieve
which around here is the most speed up hills

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2010 Zuma 155cc
BWS X Digital Gauges<>Clear Smoke BWS 125 Turn Signal Covers<>Billet Bar Ends<>Front Brake Rotor 260mm<>Razor Cam Covers<>NCY Breather Assembly<>Polini EVO Clutch Bell<>Anodized Orange Dipstick<>RRGS Front and Rear Shocks<>Dual 5000K HID's 35w High/Low Beam<>Black Adjustable Brake levers<>Halo Led's<>TST 2 Stage Variator 9gL 10gS <>NCY Oil Cooler<>Yamaha Skid Plate<>NCY Contra Spring Bearing<>1000 Rpm RRGS Contra Spring<>Yoshimura Exhaust<>NCY Direct Ignition Coil<>Lightweight Cooling Fan<>Koso Cable Clamps<>High Lift Cam+Lightened Cam Sprocket<>Underseat Storage Bag<>Stage 6 (Koso) Clutch<>Accel Handlebars<>Koso Brake Light<>Lightweight Swingarm<>RRGS 4 Pot Caliper (PH80)<>Stainless Braided Brake Line<>Lightened F|ywheel<>OEM Headlight Screens<>Zubiku Wing<>Air Horn<>9 inch stretch<>Koso High Flow Filter/Cover<>RPM 10 Spoke Wheels<>Digital Camo Vinyl Wrap<>SEP Cvt Covers





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Wed Aug 19, 2015 7:24 pm
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Post Re: strange sound when cold -Now hot
ZUMIKE wrote:
Lamb K 55 wrote:
confirmed: ticks with valve here. mine was to tight and it would tick like crazy. but it was constant. not saying that sound couldnt be that issue though. high rev... could produce a tick. but I am wondering if its a baring of some sort. its tuff to tell from listening to a bike on a computer.



ive had a few bikes that ive put manual cam chain tensioners on because of the ticking
its caused from tensioners that tighten too much and over time can cause major problems
manual you can set how tight it presses against the chain get rid of any ticking noises
my most recent bike bought brand new had the ticking around 4500 miles
just put on the manual tensioner at 6000 miles and its back to silent again
you would only hear it around 3000rpm in 3rd gear but I knew what was causing it



of course ive never seen any made for the zuma yet, but a new tensioner and gasket is cheap and easy to replace just 2 bolts
If you have lets say 10,000 miles then I would change it out
just to be safe


KOSO Japan (KN Planning) sells a manual cam chain tensioner. You can purchase them here:
https://japan.webike.net/products/23362986.html

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Post CHARMDATE
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Post QPID NETwork
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