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 Torque Driver Failure 
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Post Re: Torque Driver Failure
Race Concept wrote:
just looked at there tech specs and msds.

flash point 302f vs 460f


Oh, I forgot to mention, the quoted flash point should not be used as a metric indicating performance of a lubricant. It is often described as " > xxx F" and is intended only to alert the consumer of potential flammability hazards and maintain workplace safety.

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Thu Jul 28, 2011 8:43 pm
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Post Re: Torque Driver Failure
which 2 grease were those flash points being compared to

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Thu Jul 28, 2011 8:52 pm
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Post Re: Torque Driver Failure
ZUMIKE wrote:
which 2 grease were those flash points being compared to


That was a comparison between the Amsoil Racing Grease and Green Grease.

While I don't doubt the Amsoil's base oils are better, the Green Grease outperformed the Amsoil in several categories, ie dropping point, Timken OK Load, and Four Ball EP wear and scar test. More than likely, this is due to the higher base oil viscosity of the Green Grease. I really wish Amsoil would provide some base oil data for that grease.

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Thu Jul 28, 2011 9:09 pm
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Post Re: Torque Driver Failure
CarbonCrew wrote:
ZUMIKE wrote:
which 2 grease were those flash points being compared to


That was a comparison between the Amsoil Racing Grease and Green Grease.

While I don't doubt the Amsoil's base oils are better, the Green Grease outperformed the Amsoil in several categories, ie dropping point, Timken OK Load, and Four Ball EP wear and scar test. More than likely, this is due to the higher base oil viscosity of the Green Grease. I really wish Amsoil would provide some base oil data for that grease.

Amsoil won't give base oil data for anything...it's the main reason I won't use their products, even though they are usually good products.

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Fri Jul 29, 2011 8:38 am
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Post Re: Torque Driver Failure
I've been reading other scooter forums about the Rear pulley maintenance schedules and it seems that even 6000 mile service cycles may be too much time for a rear pulley. It may be better to just re-lube once every other oil change or 4000 miles. Maybe 5000 miles if you like to stretch out your service intervals a little. I'm sure every scooter has a unique wear and tear on the CVT due to the power and design of the specific CVT parts, so I'm not for certain if my recommended 6000 miles service interval is best or not. I just used that figure since my first rear pulley was destroyed with zero maintenance after about 9,000+/- miles. I've also read that due to the excessive heat generated by the rear pulley it will prematurely destroy belts. So it could be a reason for why some forum members have had belt problems no matter what variator they use.

http://www.scooterforumonline.com/index.php?topic=2467.0

http://symforum.com/index.php?topic=555.5;wap2

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Fri Jul 29, 2011 10:31 am
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Post Re: Torque Driver Failure
if thats the case I had my belt come apart at 2400 miles I think
so unless mine came under lubed from factory who knows unless because I had that plastic cover on the whole time added to it

im hoping bad batches of belts but wont know until I get more miles on my newer silver belt

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Fri Jul 29, 2011 2:10 pm
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Post Re: Torque Driver Failure
all the stickiness on my belt and all that is gone now. Just wore away on its own. Or covered in belt dust. :awesome: Preparing for a hard ride tomorrow with some rucks so I wanted to check over all that again, all good
I will see how the green grease holds up, probably be very hot tomorrow and alot of hills
Bringing new belt and tools just incase, you never know if that grease will have a negative effect

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2010 Zuma 155cc
BWS X Digital Gauges<>Clear Smoke BWS 125 Turn Signal Covers<>Billet Bar Ends<>Front Brake Rotor 260mm<>Razor Cam Covers<>NCY Breather Assembly<>Polini EVO Clutch Bell<>Anodized Orange Dipstick<>RRGS Front and Rear Shocks<>Dual 5000K HID's 35w High/Low Beam<>Black Adjustable Brake levers<>Halo Led's<>TST 2 Stage Variator 9gL 10gS <>NCY Oil Cooler<>Yamaha Skid Plate<>NCY Contra Spring Bearing<>1000 Rpm RRGS Contra Spring<>Yoshimura Exhaust<>NCY Direct Ignition Coil<>Lightweight Cooling Fan<>Koso Cable Clamps<>High Lift Cam+Lightened Cam Sprocket<>Underseat Storage Bag<>Stage 6 (Koso) Clutch<>Accel Handlebars<>Koso Brake Light<>Lightweight Swingarm<>RRGS 4 Pot Caliper (PH80)<>Stainless Braided Brake Line<>Lightened F|ywheel<>OEM Headlight Screens<>Zubiku Wing<>Air Horn<>9 inch stretch<>Koso High Flow Filter/Cover<>RPM 10 Spoke Wheels<>Digital Camo Vinyl Wrap<>SEP Cvt Covers





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Fri Jul 29, 2011 7:47 pm
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Post Re: Torque Driver Failure
I finally got some free time to service my rear pulley and show pics of the process...

Looks like my belt is still good with only 5000 miles there were no major defects and the width is within specs. A New belt measures 22.0mm, this belt has 20.77mm with approx. 5000 miles of use, and the limit is 19.8mm or 12,000 miles (which ever comes first).
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After 5000 miles of use, this is what the grease looks like on the drive shaft. It's a dark brown almost black color, and it looks to be at the end of it's effective use.
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This is the inner surfaces of the rear pulley. This area needs the most attention when concerning the grease wear and tear on the rear pulley. Just wipe away the old grease and clean it as thoroughly as possible with a dry paper towel before applying the new grease. Here's a pic of what it looks like after being cleaned. You want to clean this area before applying new grease to any other part of the rear pulley.
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I removed the Torque Drive collar to show what the internal grease looked like after approx. 5000 miles of use. This grease was a light tan color when it was new. Now it's a dark blackish brown. I had already wiped away the majority of grease from the guide pins and guide slots.
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You can see how black the grease is when I wiped it on an old towel.
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After thoroughly wiping away all the old grease and cleaning the surfaces of the rear pulley with dry paper towels, I applied the new grease. I'm using Amsoil Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease. It has the consistency of butter and it's slightly tacky, but not as tacky or thick as the OEM Rear Pulley grease was when it was new. I applied as much grease as I could all over the guide pins and guide slots.
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I installed the torque driver guide pin collar over the torque driver and greased guide pins/slots. The result will look like this with grease squeezed out the bottom and maybe a little near the top. Just wipe away the excess grease with a clean dry paper towel.
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This is what the rear pulley looks like after the new grease was wiped away and the spring/pulley bearing isolator is installed over the torque driver collar. Notice the rubber seals on the top of the collar and the top-inside of the pulley have a white film on them... That's the White Lithium Grease that Honda makes in a spray can. It's used to keep the rubber seals from cracking and rotting over time. I spray the grease on a paper towel and then wipe it onto the rubber seals. Wipe away any excess grease afterwards.
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When applying new grease to the rear pulley, just cake it on as shown in the picture. I'm using Amsoil Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease. Make sure to coat the bearings and every surface area on the inside of the pulley. I wiped away any excess grease then applied the White Lithium Grease that Honda makes in a spray can to the rubber seal. Apply the White Lithium Grease with a dry paper towel, then wipe away the excess grease.
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I applied Amsoil Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease to the drive shaft as shown in the picture. It's just a light coat of grease to ensure that the rear shaft and pulley are thoroughly coated. I also used White Lithium Grease that Honda makes in a spray can for the rubber drive shaft seal. I wiped the grease on using a dry paper towel and wiped way the excess grease.
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That's about it... Just thoroughly clean the belt drive surfaces on the rear pulley so the belt doesn't get grease on it, and attach the spring, clutch, and clutch bell to button everything up. Clean any drive axle grease that may find its way on the drive shaft splines or threads, to prevent it from slinging all over the clutch and bell down the road.

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Thu Aug 04, 2011 10:04 am
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Post Re: Torque Driver Failure
wow that's a lot of amsoil grease. don't have to use that much, that's the benefit of that grease. it can get the job done with less.

as always great detail and photos, thanks for sharing. as you can see service the torque drive is important too.

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Sun Aug 07, 2011 10:47 am
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Post Re: Torque Driver Failure
yup, you've gone way overboard with that one, you just need to fill the tracks where the pins are, when the TD does its thing the grease won't find space to go bcoz you filled it to the brim.

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Sun Aug 07, 2011 6:23 pm
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scooters and mods: Zuma 125 with RC Torque Driver, NCY Performance CVT Kit, NCY Exhaust, Kevlar Belt, LED headlight, Surf Rack, foot pegs.
Post Re: Torque Driver Failure
Thank you all for your hard work! I just got a new TD (indirectly) from Chris. My buddy had one sitting around, but I just wanted to say that Chris was very helpful!

I had a TD failure very similar to OP, with it giving up on welds. My bell housing looked warped so I ended up getting an NCY Complete performance kit with new variator, rollers (my OEM had a few flat spots), fan, sliding pulley (will stick with the RC as it came as an assembly and I trust Chris), contra spring, clutch, belt, etc. I will be running the 12 gram rollers and the heavier contra spring.

Anyway, I just wanted to say thank you to you guys for giving me the "comfort" to attack my first "major" repair on my own! Thanks!

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Wed Jan 25, 2017 10:48 am
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Post Re: Torque Driver Failure
It's good to hear you resolved the issue, and I am glad our insight and experience has been helpful.

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JohnnyFYX Zuma 125 Build Thread «:::Mods Listed Here:::» RC Scooters Extreme 155cc BBK w/18,500+ Miles... Upgraded to RC Scooters/Taida +3.5mm Stroker 168cc BBK!
How-To: Fix All LED TurnSignal Flashing & NonFlashing Issues
How-To: BWS Asian HID Projector Headlight Retrofit
Taida King Cam (New In Box) For Sale: $90 Shipped
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Thu Jan 26, 2017 8:36 pm
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